南京云锦
南京云锦已有1500多年的手工织造历史，其木机妆花是中国4700多年丝绸织造史、3000多年的织锦历史中唯一流传至今尚不可被现代机器取代、挖花盘织凭人的记忆编织的传统手工织造工艺。南京云锦的工艺总是靠手传口授，代代相传。
Nanjing Yunjin(brocade)hasa history of over 1500 years with rrgard to the hand-weaving technology. Its wooden-loom Zhuang Hua represents the hisrory of silk weaving lasting for ove 4700 years. This is the traditional hand-weaving technology by means of human memory that cannot be replaced by machines, the only techn-ology of its kind handed down to the modern times in a history of over3000 years co - ncerning brocade peoduction. Nanjing Yunjin technology,always tau - ght by hand and oral instruction, is handed down from generation to generation.
南京云锦是用长5.6米、 宽1.4米、 高4米的传统大花楼木织机，由拽花工和织手两人相互配合手工织造出来的。织机有1924个构件组成，“拽花工”坐在织机上层，负责提升经线，“织手”坐在机下，负责织纬、妆金敷彩。由于云锦长期用于专织皇室龙袍冕服，在织造中往往不惜成本，精益求精。故而形成了云锦的图案丰富多姿、花形硕大、造型优美、设色浓艳大胆，尤以用金为其特色，配色自由，色彩变化多样的特点。把中国彩织锦缎的配色技术和织造技术发展到了一个新的水平，使云锦达到了登峰造及的地步。木机妆花手工织造工艺便是这一特定条件下形成的集中体现云锦织造成就的唯一遗存。尤其是以“妆金、妆彩、妆孔雀羽”为特色有皇家用品，它的特殊的浮雕镶嵌式的立体效果，所表达的完美境界和文化艺术的魅力，反映出民族特有的文化心理追求，体现了科技美学的交融。它所代表的南京云锦的文化和艺术风格可以规纳为：整体艺术造型设计的靓美，彰现晕色和谐的绝美，织造技术创新原理的精美，吉祥寓意纹样图案的奇美。它的风格以及它所代表的流派在中国，乃至世界上也是罕见的。
南京云锦
Nanjing Yunjin is woven by a traditional Da Hua Lou draw-loom,5.6 meters long,1.4meters wide and 4 meters high, through coordinated manual operation of a Zhuang Hua worker and a weaver. The draw - loom is made up of 1924 parts, The Zhuang Hua worker, sitting on the top oftheloom, is responsible for lifing the warp while the weaver, sitting under the loom, is in charge of weaving the weft, applying gold-threads and colors. As Yunjin was specially used to weave the dragonrobes and official clothes for a long time, its production was conducted at all costs for perfection. As a result, its designs are featured by colorful varieties, big patterns, beautiful shapes gorgeous and bold colors, particularly golden color, free color-matching and changeable tints. The art of Yunjin has reached the peak since its craftsmanship has brought the hand-woven techniques to a point of perfection as well as the colormatching and weaving techinques to a new height. The wooden-loom Zhuang Hua with hand-woven technology is the only remainder of that epitomizes the achievements of brocade weaving under this special condition. In particular, Zhuangjin, Zhuang Cai and Zhuang kongque Yu as royal utilities are featured by the three-dimensional effect in relief and that their glamour of expressing the aesthetic realm, culture and art reflect the unique cultural and mental pursuit of Chinese nation, hence demonstr - ating the integration of science, technology and aesthetics. the cuhural and artistic sryles of Nanjing Yunjin can be bogged down into the follo - wing aspects: the charm of the entire artistic tableau, the gorgeousness of harmonious halo, the exquisiteness of the principle for the creation of weaving technology and the unusual beauty of the patterns symbolizing auspiciousness. Its styles and the school it represents are rare both in china and the world.
大花楼木织机
